Walking in the City, Part I: The Grand Palace to Lumpini Park

Bangkok definitely is a part of me now. I think I’ve walked across much of it; at least it feels that way! It has been such fun to just wander around. Of course, in my habit of being far to hard on myself, I am consumed with the thought that I should have done more, seen more, taken more pictures, gotten over jetlag sooner or just SOLDIERED PAST IT FOR KNOWLEDGE. However, it probably is a good thing that I was on jetlag because I probably would have ended up fainting in the street if I hadn’t known myself to be on the edge of exhaustion because of the time change. (That actually almost happened on Wednesday, but I’ll get to that eventually.)

I don’t think I mentioned this before, but the guesthouse where I stayed the last few days was actually the first place my family stayed when we moved to Thailand. So that was pretty neat. There was another family that I knew staying there so it was fun to see their kids and catch up a bit. “I saw your last name on the breakfast list, and I thought it was your dad staying here,” my aunt told me. It’s kind of special to be back among people who know my family.

I had no set plans for the day; I had a list of things and places I wanted to see but I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do first. I started talking to a random seminarian who was on a grant from his seminary to study sports ministry around the globe and was feeling kind of lonely since his wife wasn’t able to come with him. So when the travelling seminarian told me he planed to go to the Grand Palace and wondered if I would go with him, I decided, why not? I had wanted to go there eventually anyway. We went on a water taxi and it was so amazing to see Bangkok by daylight.

When we got to the Grand Palace (which also includes the Temple of the Emerald Buddha), I remembered how much I had forgotten about certain aspects of Thai culture. I was dressed incorrectly, which was kind of hilarious, since I was wearing gouchos, which are mid-calf length. If I had been wearing my jean skirt (knee length) or jeans (which showcase the entire leg?) I would have been fine. Anyway, they shooed us into the skirt and trouser rental stall, where I acquired a very fetching wrap skirt that clashed magnificently with the shirt I was wearing. (Pictures will be forthcoming, I promise.) Seminarian had to rent some trousers because he was wearing shorts. Feeling rather ridiculous, we continued on our way.

There was a really interesting museum of Royal regalia, but taking pictures was against the rules. I was hoping for some good photo collections, but alas. What they did have I could not document for myself. I felt a little better about my cultural competency, however, when seminarian pointed at a mural of the current dynasty and I nearly choked with horror. “Pointing is rude!” I gasped. This started an interesting discussion of respect for the monarch where I told him all sorts of interesting facts and I think he got a little bored. But as he had previously spent ages talking about sports ministry I didn’t feel too bad.

I was particularly interested in how many pink shirts I saw. Following the Yellow Shirt protests, many people who want to show loyalty to the King now wear pink. I want a pink shirt. (Pink is also the color associated with Tuesday, which also contributed to the numbers, I’m sure. However, I didn’t see as many yellow shirts on Monday or blue shirts on Wednesday as pink shirts overall. There were a lot of purple shirts, too.)

I think my favorite part of the Grand Palace were the colors of the buildings. They are so beautiful. The sunlight is so strong here that bright colors in decoration are necessary. In another place or light they would probably seem a bit garish. The temple complex was a riot of gorgeous color: blues, golds, greens and reds. I took far too many pictures. The intricate roofs against the sky were mesmerizing.

We got back on the water taxi and headed downriver. It was really crowded. Have I mentioned how much I love the Sky Train yet this post? Because I love it. After walking around in the hot sun all morning it was such a relief to get in the airconned car. Seminarian had some sporty ministry to visit and I went on to Lumpini Park, where there were barricades and counter protesters (the Multi-colored shirts) and where a Red Shirt General was assassinated.

As with Ratchaprasong, it felt a bit eerie how normal everything looked. It was also extremely hot and the park was empty. There was a stage set up at the front gate and I wondered if it was from the protests, but my aunt later told me that they often have aerobics in the park in the evening. I wanted to go back in an evening to see how the park is utilized at different times, but alas, I ran out of days. The park is interesting because it is so flat and surrounded by so many tall buildings, overpasses and the Sky Train. I almost died trying to cross the road because the traffic patterns were a bit unpredictable to me. (Trying to look all ways at once is slightly difficult, you know?)

When I was walking back to the Sky Train I overheard a man telling someone, “Yes, the barricades were all along here,” as they hurried past. I was the only one lingering. It was a bit of a relief to get back on the train and leave the odd normal-yet-site-of-tragedy behind.

On my way back to the guesthouse, I stopped at Big C to get some edibles. I didn’t feel like finding a restaurant and the guesthouse only served breakfast. Big C is kind of like Walmart, only not as big. I think it’s a European company, but I’m not sure. Anyway. Jetlag was really kicking in so it is possible that is why I could not find any peanut butter, OMG. This was quite tragic, let me tell you. I LOVE peanut butter! I ended up getting Nutella, which I also love, but it was a grave disappointment anyway.

Also, I saw a giant spider that an employee was batting down the aisle with a broom. It was huge and hairy and if I hadn’t been so tired I probably would have screamed. I wanted to ask her why she DIDN’T KILL IT, but many people here wouldn’t because of their Buddhist beliefs. Personally, if I were reincarnated as a giant hairy spider I would want to be swatted as soon as possible. As it was, I knew I would never try any of the clothes on in that store, and I spent the rest of the evening fighting off a sense of creeping doom. (As in, I kept worrying that creeping critters would appear in my room, invade my shower, hide in my bed or just crawl across my feet.)

The Thai government extended emergency rule that day. I didn’t hear about it until I was back in my room in the evening and got concerned messages from friends in America who had been following the news. (Thanks, friends! I miss you!) Given the apparent normality of all I had seen, I assured them I felt that this was a precautionary measure. Overall, the sense I have of Bangkok is that things are quiet, but there is definitely an unspoken tension. And a strong interest in the World Cup! Seriously, it is everywhere.